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IVI4V3R1CK
PostPosted: Thu Jan 17, 2008 3:25 pm  Reply with quote



Joined: 04 Dec 2007
Posts: 1067
Location: Colorado Springs, CO

I was sitting at work, and since they banned YT from here, as well as took away my addictinggames.com rights, I was sitting on here talking to HeelyWilly and he asked me if I knew how to make a kink rail. I sent him the message, but it took so much time, and I put a lot of work into it, I decided to write my own thread on it to let the rest of you guys know.

As a disclaimer to anyone here would would try to burst my bubble of creatism

I KNOW YOU CAN BUY A KINK RAIL FROM WAL-MART AND ANY OTHER SPORTING GOODS/SKATING STORE, BUT AS I STRESSED BEFORE, I WAS BORED AND DECIDED TO WRITE THIS OUT. I AM NOT SAYING THAT THIS SHOULD REPLACE A METAL KINK RAIL, NOR AM I SAYING THAT THIS IDEA IS 100% FULL PROOF. THIS IDEA HAS NOT BE PRACTICED BY ME PERSONALLY, NOR ANYBODY THAT I KNOW. THIS IDEA WAS CREATED BY MY CONSTRUCTION KNOWLEDGE AND TYPED OUT TO BE THE EASIEST AND SAFEST SOLUTION TO A DIY KINK RAIL

And now that is out of the way, on with the tutorial

What you need

2x any legnth of PVC pipe
1X 2' legnth of PVC pipe
A bunch of spare 2x4's
Caulk/Rubber Cement
2x 45 PVC corners attatchment
a Metal/Plastic File
Sand Paper
Acrylic Coating
Skill Saw (Circular Saw, or any other power saw that can crosscut at a 45 angle)
Paint Brush
2x Mounting Brakets

So Basically, this is what I was going to do

Take one of the 45 corners and put it on the one pipe, hold it together with some glue, and let it dry. Do the same to the other piece, then glue the smaller piece within the two, so it should look like this
..........=======
......... //............Ground
........ //.................|
====//..................V
________________________

(sorry the kink is really steep, but I'm not going to make this elaborat diargram. If you built that quarter pipe, then you should grasp the concept)

Now, take the 2x4 and glue them to the bottom of the kink rail. For the center kink, use the skill saw and cross cut the ends so that they can touch together at the 45 bend. After its done, it should resemble something like this

O____________...<--- PVC
===========.<--- 2x4.......Looking at it from the side

_____________
....<--- 2x4
==========....<--- PVC......Looking at it from the top
_____________ ....<--- 2x4

Now that it is glued down, I would take hammer and nails and frame it all in, 1' at the bottom and the cripples for the top will depend on the wood you used. Then take 1 full 2x4 to span the legnth of the full pipe The framing should look like this


............... //=========...<--- Rail
.............. //||......||......||...<--- Cripples
=======// ||......||......||
||.......||..||.||......||......||
_________________________.<--- 2x4


Now, take some extra 2x4 and put them between the cripples, and put smaller ones on the edges for stability. It should look like this


.=||=.........=||=..........=||= <--- Feet
=================== <--- Rail Viewing from the Top
.=||=.........=||=..........=||= <--- Feet




............... //=========...<--- Rail
.............. //||......||......||...<--- Cripples
=======//.||......||......||
||.......||..||.||......||......|| ...................... Viewing from the Side
___||___||____||_____||____ <--- 2x4
.....^.....^......^........^......
.....|____|_____|______|________ Feet


............-------------- 2x4 in between the cripples
.... ____V____
.... |...........|
....____________
.........................<--- 2x4 underneath for stability
....____________



OK, so now you have a rail, but you have these big things sticking out on the 45 angle connectors on the PVC, which is where the file comes in... File down (it may be easier to use a hack saw to trim down the top 1st, then file down the rough edges) to make the pipe smooth along the transfer. Make sure you get the side of the pipes as well so you can get some mounting practice. Then use the sand paper to give it an extra smooth finish. Also, take the sand paper to the rest of the rail slightly, this will make it easier for the bonding process

Now that the edges are smoothed down, take the acrylic and apply it generously around the piping with a paintbrush, and let it harden for 24 hours. Now that the acrylic has hardened, at your own risk, apply another coat (it may not stick, and in turn it may result in not being as smooth, but it is worth a try)

Now take the mounting brackets and secure them an inch away from the edge of the rail on both sides, for mounted stability of the rail.

Apply some wax (optional) and now you have a rail.



These are my directions on how I THINK a kink rail CAN be built. I have not tried it out in person, and I am NOT saying it will be the most sturdy piece of equipment, pending on how it was built. Nor am I saying that it is practical, because you can easily spend about 50 bucks and buy a kink rail from Wal-Mart or any other skating/sports store. This is strictly a tutorial that I have assembled out of boredom thinking that it is a possibility to work if it is constructed correctly if you so happened to want to build your own kink rail. Enjoy

-Pat aka IVI4V3R1CK



P.S. I had to put the periods in so it didn't look all fuggered up
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Jive
PostPosted: Thu Jan 17, 2008 4:07 pm  Reply with quote
Guest





dude, i will never finish this thread.
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Big Mac
PostPosted: Thu Jan 17, 2008 4:21 pm  Reply with quote
Team Heelys - Northeast


Joined: 28 May 2007
Posts: 779

Jive wrote:
dude, i will never finish this thread.
you might not, but the people who want a kink rail or arnt allowed to buy one might want to read the whole thing
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IVI4V3R1CK
PostPosted: Fri Jan 18, 2008 7:57 am  Reply with quote



Joined: 04 Dec 2007
Posts: 1067
Location: Colorado Springs, CO

lol, its not THAT long
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RougeSkater
PostPosted: Fri Oct 09, 2009 4:05 pm  Reply with quote



Joined: 04 Sep 2009
Posts: 55
Location: In your closet eating pizza

W0w that took effort to make that post eh?
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